There is a remarkable transition from Charles & Ron’s Fall/Winter 2015 to their freshly exhibited Spring/Summer 2016 collection. The transition is consistent in terms of quality, cut and colour, but the Fall/Winter 2015 collection had left us wanting more with its indulgent gothic fabrics and violet, emerald and velvet black palette.
And more was indeed delivered in the range to come.
In contrast to the above mentioned colours, Charles & Ron switched the colour scheme to some truly Mediterranean shades. We have a striking canary yellow that is cleverly teamed with dabs of dusty blue. That smidgeon of the latter transforms the often formidable yellow into a more approachable hue. It is that hint of blue or the slash of white that renders it golden.
Black makes another appearance in this collection, but has now shifted its presence to sleek and mesh materials. It is the backbone to the geometric element of these designs. The strategic placement of the black stripes further stabilises the flattering shapes the designers have gone for.
It is pleasing to see that the kimono-sleeve factor has evolved from the cape factor of Fall/Winter 2015. It’s one of the most beautiful features of this selection. It is a particular triumph in a yellow, white and black kimono wrap (what else?) jacket.
That sense of floatiness from the previous collection has also come into its own, and noticeably makes its mark in a head-turning V-neck maxi dress teamed with a satin scarf. Again, the combination of yellow, white and black in vertical stripes gives statuesque length, both to the dress and to the woman.
As mentioned earlier, Charles & Ron have explored geometry to a greater extent in this collection. This can be seen not just in the attire, but also in the handbags and shoes. Three clutch bags stand out – two triangle shapes, and a triangle within a square. They’re minimalist but eye-catching, and they’re a lovely surprise to notice as they blend and camouflage so well with the outfits. The shoes opted for maintained the same shape, but the variety of combinations that came on the catwalk was lovely. Each platform had a different colour – either black, yellow, blue or grey green.
There was also a continuation of traditional emblems which is so quintessentially Charles & Ron. In the previous season, the designers had featured ganutell images on their fabrics. In this collection, the famous Eye of Osiris makes a guest appearance, and its bold colours are projected in the whole selection. There is also play with a tile-pattern that is reminiscent of those found in Mediterranean houses of character. Interestingly, when one takes a closer look, the tiling pattern forms the frontal image of a luzzu.
Charles & Ron have most certainly commandeered their fleet of vessels very well this season. The show took place at the Nolcha Shows during New York Fashion Week at the Chelsea Pier 59. We would like to congratulate the designers on yet another triumph.