PARIS AND HER HAUTE COUTURE WEEK

“It was interesting to put the clients, the public and the reporters in front of a little atelier with the artisans, and to see the models walking between these. It has created a beautiful connection. Every tweed has been made by hand using little looms. There aren’t any industrial fabrics.

“I love to play with volume. Sure enough, the corners of the shoulders are clipped thanks to fabric and style; there is no shoulder pad to create this result.”

“I had asked seamstresses of the four high fashion ateliers to come onto the fashion show. Every Premier – the first seamstress – has her specialty. Some make only tailleurs, some just make dresses. All depends on their savoir-faire, and when we give the sketches to the atelier, we choose the perfect person for each item of clothing. The ateliers are beautiful well-lit rooms, because a special collection needs special workers and extraordinary places. They are indispensable people with whom I love to work.”

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Above: Valentino

 

This is what Karl Lagerfeld had to say about the latest Chanel fashion show in Paris. He’s grateful towards every person that’s given their own contribution to create the perfect high fashion collections. And yes, this show was most certainly perfect.

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Above: Valentino

 

Gorgeous gems, pink, black and white feathers, coloured pearls, lace and embroideries were omnipresent throughout the exhibition. Some dresses had a sharp-cornered style – a result of research and innovation. Tailleurs and overcoats were full of Chanel identity, and dresses were both sweet and sensual.

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Above: Valentino

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Above: Valentino

 

The mood for Valentino‘s latest collection is William Shakespeare‘s life and tales, with Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli at the helm. Since 2008, these two have successfully led the famous Italian fashion house, thought it would seem that Chiuri could become art director at Christian Dior, and this could very well be their last collection together.

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Above: Chanel, photo by Yannis Vlamos

 

Clothes that are inspired by the world of theatre, these are not just dresses, but real characters written in the 15th century. White collars and black dresses with golden necklaces are reminiscent of Shakepeare’s and Queen Elisabeth I’s portraits.

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Above: Chanel, photo by Yannis Vlamos

 

Amleto and Giulietta are the main characters present in this fashion show. The first portrays male and military looks with short jackets and black boots. The second dons long, delicate chiffon dresses, but every outfit is adorned with a voluminous red Valentino cloak. Verses are embroidered on a veiled top, as are silver and golden paillettes. The overcoat is completed with patchworks and leather strips, giving a distinct punk signature.

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Above: Chanel, photo by Yannis Vlamos

 

So the fashion epilogue of these two households has a happy ending. Craft, human skill, personality, beauty and art prevail over mass industry and manufacturing.

Below: Chanel, photo by Yannis Vlamos

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