MALTA FASHION WEEK: MACHO MATRIARCHY

Nothing says power-dressing quite like leather. So by the power vested in NilaraInsomnia amalgamates the feminine delicacy of mesh and lace with the muscularity of leather, forging designs that exude the two-fold humors of the female. The outfits are an enticing expression of estrogen and testosterone, where androgyny does not come at the expense of womanliness; on the contrary, it elevates it. One such example is a cut-out leather jumpsuit with inserted frilly lace, with killer-carved flares. Another notable triumph is one-shoulder maxi dress with an imposing chain detail and sun beamed black leather and fabric. The queen bee of this collection, however, has to be a red leather strapless gown with a creeping collar of black lace and matching fishtail. Now, that’s a fantasy outfit.

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‘Insomnia’ by Nilara. Photo credits to Jason Spiteri.

 

Trim anything with fur, and everyone’ll want it. That’s my theory, anyway. Fashion-conscious women are always on the hunt for well tailored trousers that will see them through the toughest of days, and a good dose of fur – whatever form it may come in – for enveloping dominance. Milica Trickovic presents Hunter, where models emerged onto the catwalk adorning fabrics with an air that says that she’s foraged for what she’s wearing and put it together herself. There’s something beautifully primal about this collection, and the order of the exhibition tells a story of evolution. Initially, we see the woman surface as a dainty creature in pale blue fairy tale lace garments; this is her primary skin. And then, a part of this skin is shed, savagely replaced by black leather. And then, the hunter becomes more ambitious and returns with fur tokens, but still maintaining her delicate personality. For a moment, we see a phase of purity manifest itself in a few ivory garments, but winter soon arrives, and we see the woman completely shed of her frailty, wearing her prey as a symbol of her independence. The fur trimmed leather and embroidered coat is her prized possession; a mark of her matriarchy.

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‘Hunter’ by Milica Trickovic. Photo credits to Ronald Camilleri.

 

Here come the boys, or rather, the gentlemen. ‘Dapper’ is Gagliardi‘s keyword for this collection. Not that it’s ever failed to be anything but dapper in its previous work, but there’s a Rex Harrison in My Fair Lady aura to this one. Cool and flattering shades of blue do not distract from the clean cut smartness of the entire set, which is also reminiscent of the recent surge of spy films such as Kingsman: The Secret Service and The Man from U.N.C.L.E.. Indeed, a stellar blue suit has got Henry Cavill written all over it. A selection of pinstripe suits give length and a sense of leadership to any wearer, and a tweed and corduroy is absolutely to die for. An equally divine monochrome jumper delivers width and a broad physique to the wearer with its horizontal design, and we particular love the crisp white pullover teamed with suave shades.

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Gagliardi. Photo credits to J Ciappara Photography.