Create A Perfect Base #3 – Concealing & The Colour Wheel

Left: Colour corrector wheel | Right: Area where concealer should be applied

Concealer can work wonders if applied correctly. Whether you need to conceal under-eye circles after a heavy night out partying or simply to cover any imperfections, then concealer is the answer!

Concealer Tones

The general rule is to choose a concealer that’s yellow based and a shade or two lighter than your skin tone.

However, what most of you might not know is that there are other colours of concealers, which are usually referred to as “neutralising colours”. You commonly find these in the form of a corrective colour wheel; however I have seen individuals for sale too! Here is what each colour does –

Beige – Conceals flaws and shadows and brightens up the under-eye area.

Mint Green – Neutralises red tones on the skin. It is ideal for covering blemishes and red blotches.

Yellow – Conceals bluish bruises, under-eye circles and mild red tones on the face.

Lavender – Normalises yellow coloured imperfections, such as sallow complexions and yellow bruises.

Before or after foundation?

There is no hard and fast rule for this. Usually concealer under the eyes is applied before foundation whilst concealer on blemishes is applied after. However, it is up to you to experiment and determine which way works the best for you.

Application – Under-Eye Circles

The best way that I have found to conceal under-eye circles is to place dots of concealer in a triangle-shaped pattern (see picture above). Then gently disperse the concealer and blend well. You might wish to use your (clean) fingers to do this as the heat from your fingertips will melt the product and will allow you to work it into the skin easily.

Application – Blemishes, spots and the rest

Application in these cases is similar to that of under-eye circles, excluding the triangle-shaped pattern, of course. Dab a little concealer on the area that needs covering and gently tap into your skin until the needed coverage is achieved.

Remember to always set your concealer with a touch of finishing powder for lasting power!

Next article in this series – Contouring and Highlighting – Stay tuned!